The mountain city of Lviv
In a sense, Lviv can be interpreted as a mountain town. In a sense, even as a mountain metropolis. In a certain sense. Lviv
is by no means a city in the mountains: even under conditions most
courageous metaforiki it would be too much already obvious
exaggeration. Is not it also the city in the middle of the mountains, but, undoubtedly, the mountain town. And in this sense I want today to talk about it.
***
But
luckily for us Lviv and does not pretend to the totality of the
mountain, so we agreed that Kiev can be called a mining town - and not,
say, a modest "gateway to Pidkarpattya" - only in a certain sense. Also,
for the sake of fairness would be required to acknowledge that there
are a lot more sense, in which Kiev mining town is not ...
...
However, I am given that the understanding of the substance of Lviv
only benefits from the fact that we look at it this together that way.
Zreshtoyu,
this effect is known: we are all the more distinctly urban feel and
substance of the urban element, the longer you out of the city. Need a little alienated from the city, so to be able to further enjoy them again. So why not try to alienate him from himself, or going anywhere, but, so to speak, the power of the imagination? Especially
since you do not even need to resort to some kind of eccentric actions
of fantasy: for example, mentally remove the body of a hilly Lviv
mnogosloisty array of building to reveal its own is not the culture,
and natural topography. Far from it.
And
now the last right of entry: once, while still a child, I had one a
travel atlas of the Carpathians, which at the end contained a plan of
Lviv (incidentally, not just a plan, but one of the few while drawing
panoramic maps). Children vrazhlivist, as we know, unpredictable, and children's experiences are marked by a long time. Therefore
difficult: since this coupling between the mountains and Lviv in me so
occupied, that get rid of it already, apparently, nothing.
***
However, should start after it was out of the Carpathians. And start from naypoverhovishogo and most obvious: from nartyarstva. The proximity of Lviv to the Carpathians best palpable, of course, charging. And
it is not only due to the fact that charging a lot more people go into
the mountains on sleds than in the summer vandruvati, but - perhaps
above all, because the winter gear is much more striking: bulky,
bright, and sometimes simply still defiantly vociferous. Nartyari and generally involve much more zimoviki reyvahu than the gate. Lviv
charging covers true fever, which for the Lviv residents especially
reinforced this opportunity pendulum washed over the weekend. However,
they markedly, so to speak, twice: when leaving the city and at the
entrance, so it can be given that twice as many than in reality. Nartyarstvo Lviv has a long and prebogatuyu history and full of cult status ...
In recent years nartyariv added doshkoviki. As
this subculture recruits its supporters mainly in the middle of the
s-or just very young people, it is also a manifestation of modernism,
fresh winds, fresh trends. The very first, as always, in the bearings ads. Now,
the thirst for charging imitate some fashion trends, she'll resort to
this status symbol, no matter what there is to her question: about
cigarettes, cars, clothing and candy or mobile phones. Where
the young, fashionable and there, but where is fashionable, there just
the same, must be board - snow charging, water pour - and shlyus. In a force field of relations vytvorilis whole party, and that there party - the camp! Stubborn
and loyal nartyarstva convinced doshkonenavisniki (softer version -
doshkoskeptiki); given nartyari but planks-ліберали (perfidnishy option
- planks, ironisti); religious doshkoviki and doshkoviki stylized,
violent doshkoviki who despise conservative obscurantists-nartyariv and
doshkoviki tolerant - and so on. Snobs enough in any one formation.
Priblizno
simultaneously with snovbordistami in winter Lviv zaisnuvali others
before unknown sotvorinnya: this winter sportovtsi from other regions
of Ukraine or negalitskih from geographically very distant foreign
"near". Usually
on the road to Lvov Carpathian (or Polish or Slovak or Austrian, etc.)
Mountain Resorts Check those that travel avtami have time, money and
good instruction, and fittingly say that because they already have such
a long journey ,
then a visit to the historically and culturally rich Galician city,
famous, moreover, its beauty, will be away superfluous and enrich the
palette of Acceptance another, complementary shade. These people treat Lviv complete non-use. Identify
them on the streets immediately, because they go to the city slowly,
supernatural, and somehow completely bezinteresovno, but very
interested ...
And here it fell to to talk about the summer of bundles of Lviv with the mountains of the Carpathians. These
cords are not only in the summer correspondences zamiluvantsiv winter
mountain sports - vandrivnikah and mountaineer, and just so-called
holiday in the lap of nature - but also about the many families and
individuals who are in the Carpathians, villas, houses, and other
grazhdi litniska. This
tradition is also quite old, in each case I eldest of nartyarskoy: it
can trace the beginning after all at last XIX century, in this bizarre
and complex spletivi different intellectual currents, social pozhadan,
anthropological beliefs and aesthetic preferences. Although there is as venerable tradition. Crucial
to our sense of romanticism was his fear and loathing before
industrialization, a sense of guilt zanapaschuvanoy fishing nature and
longing for symmetric nezipsutoy, nezakalyanoy primary. Since
then, more affluent Lvov or buy, or vinaymayut, or build their own
litnisko in the mountains, and the poorer or live with the peasants, or
wander with their tents. All of them combine the fact that in the eyes The local inhabitants, they are like a long time ago said, "holernikami.
Same
time and it is in this middle-class tract opening Carpathians begin and
trends such as poetization Carpathians through art, as well as
"invention hutsuls. The
invention, of course, not in the literal sense, because they are too
vidnahodzhuvati not have to - they just have a yes they were. "Invention"
refers to just such an image and a legend of hutsuls, which was in
those middle-class artistic mediums sverhobychay common: the ancient
custom, semi-savage noble people, aggressive and passionate, invincible
spirit, and dangerous, the pure in heart but is often insidious in
intent and unrestrained in their implementation,
which will honor and most of all - all the projections of what those
Lviv most lacking and therefore the hardest praglosya. The solid, in fact, romanticism. But
what a blessing that he invented, because hutsuls long ago realized
what translations of them invented, and therefore what they were all
hoping and skillfully use these legends for the presentation itself. Some, in the end, so imbued with them, so close they took them to his heart that took and they believed. And now the saints themselves are convinced that in fact they are true. Ba more: they persuaded the tourists, and nartyariv holernikiv, and this is exactly what they both wanted to hear. In short, full circle, the legend was a success for the glory, and, above all, that everyone is happy.
***
Lviv full Carpathian Carpathian reminiscences and references. Carpathians
there are villas of architectural bureau Levinsky (a mountain in a
broader sense and in the buildings of the Zakopane style, countless
private and public collections hutsul art collecting that until
recently regarded as his sacred duty of everyone who was himself on the
intellectual, the motives secular
classes in painting and graphics in the Ethnographic Museum and the
wooden churches and citizen Shevchenko groves, sleeveless and Sidestrap
golden youth, but the sort that out "good Galician families," the
tendency for all - and those of good family, and those that
of not up to the end - to etnografizmu and etnografizatsii in litniskah
local doctors, lawyers, customs officers and businessmen, plener
painters, Jamboree (as they called it the hell) of young and older
scouts, inspiratsiynih vipravah all kinds of writers. Carpathians here figure
of students, interns and extras: pins, and hutsuls Transcarpathians,
this can be seen in Lviv attractions - Rakhiv, Lviv - Mukachevo, Lviv -
Chernivtsi, Lviv - Uzhhorod, Lviv large Icarus - Kosel, Lviv -
Yaremche, as well as many small and
larger minibuses. Carpathians here chernogirski, and Skole-turkivski
and starosambirski and Yaremchanskoy-kolomiyski. Lemkivska And - in the
shape of the Union Lemke.
***
However,
the proximity to the Carpathians is for the city not only blessing, but
also a drawback, because it distracts attention from the landscape,
though not such well-known, but much closer: Holohory, Tovtry,
Voronyakiv or Roztochchya. Unidentified they fully deserve it, because they are beautiful. They - undervalued beautiful landscapes in the immediate vicinity of Lvov. A
Roztochchya and much of the Podolsky plates that did come into the city
itself, making it difficult topography, geology, diverse, and optics
hilly. However,
maybe this is for good, maybe this is another blessing, because under
such conditions, all these views, that they paid attention to the
tourists and local fans lap of nature, have more opportunity in today's
potrivati nezipsutosti. And this is where our conversation begins on the mountain nekarpatskoy nature of the city.
Bo
without these knobbly landscapes - Big Podolsky plate Roztochchya, and
above all without the fact that Lviv is their zudar enriched to the
same meeting with an open lowland Pobuzhzhya, there would be no city. Lviv
as a city, town, like a prehistoric settlement, because that is
actually this dramatic encounter such a variety of formations, which
leads to a potyaty,, pomerezhany relief was a decisive factor for the
decision to establish a degree of Leo in this place. A
side effect of this calculation is a very beautiful landscapes and vast
tracts of ancient landscapes is not just at the moment circle the city,
but in the middle of the city. No
scenery and - above all - terrain Lviv would Architecture Gallery, and
entered into this terrain, it is a great spectacle of light, top and
bottom, corners and angles. The
city, which cherishes the topos of the "city on seven hills, like Rome,
actually has a lot more hills: 17, 70 or 77 - not exactly known,
because, first of all, no one they really did not think, and, secondly,
many of them so tightly covered with shell building, which cease to be distinctive to the eye. Even walking on foot, do not always notice them, especially in-depth conversation whether any thought. Best pagorbkuvatist Lviv palpable at Rover, but it is for the rover, this city is available not too good. Rover
here can be likened to SUVs: just how bad conditions have been pushed
civil Rover, but opening the way to the mountain and fleet increasingly
militarize, more importantly, nepristupnishae.
Romance the Lviv life can compare with the romance of Mountie tale: she hilly and dirava.
Idea
in the middle of the city suddenly has a huge hunk of totally wild
landscape, a conglomerate: Lonshanivka - Kaiserwald - High Castle -
Znesinnya. With
total ease, only traversed Lichakivsku can again find himself on the
green archipelago Lichakivsky park - college bowl stadiums -
Tsetnerivka - Pogulivanie - Mayorivka - Honey Caves - Vinnikivsky
Forest - Devil's Rock. From the system board through the Podolsk Most Lviv depression can go on the spurs Roztochchya, coming on the Iron Waters
If
you have an attentive eye, we can easily distinguish the old villages,
such as Snopkov or Laptev, from the old estates and urban areas:
Kulparkova, Persenkivki, Zamarstinova, Kleparov.
In
general, many tracks are erased, and that not only culture, but merely
topographical: stesani cream hills, watered stocks, dried swamp, as the
fable, ponds, whether as Pelczynski, Kostelivsky, underground rivers,
as Apiaries, crow or very important for Poltva, streams, as Vuletsky, Lichakivsky. Without them it is impossible to understand the history and logic of this city. I
am very fond of such fix, when, going down today Lviv, imagine what it
actually domiskim, topographic, ba, even geographically. This double journey - one foot, and another in the head, there is one, and another imaginary. Then
some of the streets are transformed into bed earlier brooks and
streams, urban areas into small plateau, and the area of the marshes
and rates.
***
Without this mountain structure, without height variations and dramatic duty Lviv architecture would be completely different. This
means not only that the same facilities would be located on the plane,
creating rivnenki a cord and passages, rather than a dynamic
entertainment. But
above all it means that many - if not most - of these architects built
buildings would not like this, but others adapted itself to the plain. It is hard to even imagine, who would then Lviv.
At this point, would have to start talking about the essence of Lviv - its architecture. But it is precisely in this place finishes this text.
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