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The mountain city of Lviv

The mountain city of Lviv
In a sense, Lviv can be interpreted as a mountain town. In a sense, even as a mountain metropolis. In a certain sense. Lviv is by no means a city in the mountains: even under conditions most courageous metaforiki it would be too much already obvious exaggeration. Is not it also the city in the middle of the mountains, but, undoubtedly, the mountain town. And in this sense I want today to talk about it.
***
But luckily for us Lviv and does not pretend to the totality of the mountain, so we agreed that Kiev can be called a mining town - and not, say, a modest "gateway to Pidkarpattya" - only in a certain sense. Also, for the sake of fairness would be required to acknowledge that there are a lot more sense, in which Kiev mining town is not ...
... However, I am given that the understanding of the substance of Lviv only benefits from the fact that we look at it this together that way.
Zreshtoyu, this effect is known: we are all the more distinctly urban feel and substance of the urban element, the longer you out of the city. Need a little alienated from the city, so to be able to further enjoy them again. So why not try to alienate him from himself, or going anywhere, but, so to speak, the power of the imagination? Especially since you do not even need to resort to some kind of eccentric actions of fantasy: for example, mentally remove the body of a hilly Lviv mnogosloisty array of building to reveal its own is not the culture, and natural topography. Far from it.
And now the last right of entry: once, while still a child, I had one a travel atlas of the Carpathians, which at the end contained a plan of Lviv (incidentally, not just a plan, but one of the few while drawing panoramic maps). Children vrazhlivist, as we know, unpredictable, and children's experiences are marked by a long time. Therefore difficult: since this coupling between the mountains and Lviv in me so occupied, that get rid of it already, apparently, nothing.
***
However, should start after it was out of the Carpathians. And start from naypoverhovishogo and most obvious: from nartyarstva. The proximity of Lviv to the Carpathians best palpable, of course, charging. And it is not only due to the fact that charging a lot more people go into the mountains on sleds than in the summer vandruvati, but - perhaps above all, because the winter gear is much more striking: bulky, bright, and sometimes simply still defiantly vociferous. Nartyari and generally involve much more zimoviki reyvahu than the gate. Lviv charging covers true fever, which for the Lviv residents especially reinforced this opportunity pendulum washed over the weekend. However, they markedly, so to speak, twice: when leaving the city and at the entrance, so it can be given that twice as many than in reality. Nartyarstvo Lviv has a long and prebogatuyu history and full of cult status ...
In recent years nartyariv added doshkoviki. As this subculture recruits its supporters mainly in the middle of the s-or just very young people, it is also a manifestation of modernism, fresh winds, fresh trends. The very first, as always, in the bearings ads. Now, the thirst for charging imitate some fashion trends, she'll resort to this status symbol, no matter what there is to her question: about cigarettes, cars, clothing and candy or mobile phones. Where the young, fashionable and there, but where is fashionable, there just the same, must be board - snow charging, water pour - and shlyus. In a force field of relations vytvorilis whole party, and that there party - the camp! Stubborn and loyal nartyarstva convinced doshkonenavisniki (softer version - doshkoskeptiki); given nartyari but planks-ліберали (perfidnishy option - planks, ironisti); religious doshkoviki and doshkoviki stylized, violent doshkoviki who despise conservative obscurantists-nartyariv and doshkoviki tolerant - and so on. Snobs enough in any one formation.
Priblizno simultaneously with snovbordistami in winter Lviv zaisnuvali others before unknown sotvorinnya: this winter sportovtsi from other regions of Ukraine or negalitskih from geographically very distant foreign "near". Usually on the road to Lvov Carpathian (or Polish or Slovak or Austrian, etc.) Mountain Resorts Check those that travel avtami have time, money and good instruction, and fittingly say that because they already have such a long journey , then a visit to the historically and culturally rich Galician city, famous, moreover, its beauty, will be away superfluous and enrich the palette of Acceptance another, complementary shade. These people treat Lviv complete non-use. Identify them on the streets immediately, because they go to the city slowly, supernatural, and somehow completely bezinteresovno, but very interested ...
And here it fell to to talk about the summer of bundles of Lviv with the mountains of the Carpathians. These cords are not only in the summer correspondences zamiluvantsiv winter mountain sports - vandrivnikah and mountaineer, and just so-called holiday in the lap of nature - but also about the many families and individuals who are in the Carpathians, villas, houses, and other grazhdi litniska. This tradition is also quite old, in each case I eldest of nartyarskoy: it can trace the beginning after all at last XIX century, in this bizarre and complex spletivi different intellectual currents, social pozhadan, anthropological beliefs and aesthetic preferences. Although there is as venerable tradition. Crucial to our sense of romanticism was his fear and loathing before industrialization, a sense of guilt zanapaschuvanoy fishing nature and longing for symmetric nezipsutoy, nezakalyanoy primary. Since then, more affluent Lvov or buy, or vinaymayut, or build their own litnisko in the mountains, and the poorer or live with the peasants, or wander with their tents. All of them combine the fact that in the eyes The local inhabitants, they are like a long time ago said, "holernikami.
Same time and it is in this middle-class tract opening Carpathians begin and trends such as poetization Carpathians through art, as well as "invention hutsuls. The invention, of course, not in the literal sense, because they are too vidnahodzhuvati not have to - they just have a yes they were. "Invention" refers to just such an image and a legend of hutsuls, which was in those middle-class artistic mediums sverhobychay common: the ancient custom, semi-savage noble people, aggressive and passionate, invincible spirit, and dangerous, the pure in heart but is often insidious in intent and unrestrained in their implementation, which will honor and most of all - all the projections of what those Lviv most lacking and therefore the hardest praglosya. The solid, in fact, romanticism. But what a blessing that he invented, because hutsuls long ago realized what translations of them invented, and therefore what they were all hoping and skillfully use these legends for the presentation itself. Some, in the end, so imbued with them, so close they took them to his heart that took and they believed. And now the saints themselves are convinced that in fact they are true. Ba more: they persuaded the tourists, and nartyariv holernikiv, and this is exactly what they both wanted to hear. In short, full circle, the legend was a success for the glory, and, above all, that everyone is happy.
***
Lviv full Carpathian Carpathian reminiscences and references. Carpathians there are villas of architectural bureau Levinsky (a mountain in a broader sense and in the buildings of the Zakopane style, countless private and public collections hutsul art collecting that until recently regarded as his sacred duty of everyone who was himself on the intellectual, the motives secular classes in painting and graphics in the Ethnographic Museum and the wooden churches and citizen Shevchenko groves, sleeveless and Sidestrap golden youth, but the sort that out "good Galician families," the tendency for all - and those of good family, and those that of not up to the end - to etnografizmu and etnografizatsii in litniskah local doctors, lawyers, customs officers and businessmen, plener painters, Jamboree (as they called it the hell) of young and older scouts, inspiratsiynih vipravah all kinds of writers. Carpathians here figure of students, interns and extras: pins, and hutsuls Transcarpathians, this can be seen in Lviv attractions - Rakhiv, Lviv - Mukachevo, Lviv - Chernivtsi, Lviv - Uzhhorod, Lviv large Icarus - Kosel, Lviv - Yaremche, as well as many small and larger minibuses. Carpathians here chernogirski, and Skole-turkivski and starosambirski and Yaremchanskoy-kolomiyski. Lemkivska And - in the shape of the Union Lemke.
***
However, the proximity to the Carpathians is for the city not only blessing, but also a drawback, because it distracts attention from the landscape, though not such well-known, but much closer: Holohory, Tovtry, Voronyakiv or Roztochchya. Unidentified they fully deserve it, because they are beautiful. They - undervalued beautiful landscapes in the immediate vicinity of Lvov. A Roztochchya and much of the Podolsky plates that did come into the city itself, making it difficult topography, geology, diverse, and optics hilly. However, maybe this is for good, maybe this is another blessing, because under such conditions, all these views, that they paid attention to the tourists and local fans lap of nature, have more opportunity in today's potrivati nezipsutosti. And this is where our conversation begins on the mountain nekarpatskoy nature of the city.
Bo without these knobbly landscapes - Big Podolsky plate Roztochchya, and above all without the fact that Lviv is their zudar enriched to the same meeting with an open lowland Pobuzhzhya, there would be no city. Lviv as a city, town, like a prehistoric settlement, because that is actually this dramatic encounter such a variety of formations, which leads to a potyaty,, pomerezhany relief was a decisive factor for the decision to establish a degree of Leo in this place. A side effect of this calculation is a very beautiful landscapes and vast tracts of ancient landscapes is not just at the moment circle the city, but in the middle of the city. No scenery and - above all - terrain Lviv would Architecture Gallery, and entered into this terrain, it is a great spectacle of light, top and bottom, corners and angles. The city, which cherishes the topos of the "city on seven hills, like Rome, actually has a lot more hills: 17, 70 or 77 - not exactly known, because, first of all, no one they really did not think, and, secondly, many of them so tightly covered with shell building, which cease to be distinctive to the eye. Even walking on foot, do not always notice them, especially in-depth conversation whether any thought. Best pagorbkuvatist Lviv palpable at Rover, but it is for the rover, this city is available not too good. Rover here can be likened to SUVs: just how bad conditions have been pushed civil Rover, but opening the way to the mountain and fleet increasingly militarize, more importantly, nepristupnishae.
Romance the Lviv life can compare with the romance of Mountie tale: she hilly and dirava.
Idea in the middle of the city suddenly has a huge hunk of totally wild landscape, a conglomerate: Lonshanivka - Kaiserwald - High Castle - Znesinnya. With total ease, only traversed Lichakivsku can again find himself on the green archipelago Lichakivsky park - college bowl stadiums - Tsetnerivka - Pogulivanie - Mayorivka - Honey Caves - Vinnikivsky Forest - Devil's Rock. From the system board through the Podolsk Most Lviv depression can go on the spurs Roztochchya, coming on the Iron Waters
If you have an attentive eye, we can easily distinguish the old villages, such as Snopkov or Laptev, from the old estates and urban areas: Kulparkova, Persenkivki, Zamarstinova, Kleparov.
In general, many tracks are erased, and that not only culture, but merely topographical: stesani cream hills, watered stocks, dried swamp, as the fable, ponds, whether as Pelczynski, Kostelivsky, underground rivers, as Apiaries, crow or very important for Poltva, streams, as Vuletsky, Lichakivsky. Without them it is impossible to understand the history and logic of this city. I am very fond of such fix, when, going down today Lviv, imagine what it actually domiskim, topographic, ba, even geographically. This double journey - one foot, and another in the head, there is one, and another imaginary. Then some of the streets are transformed into bed earlier brooks and streams, urban areas into small plateau, and the area of the marshes and rates.
***
Without this mountain structure, without height variations and dramatic duty Lviv architecture would be completely different. This means not only that the same facilities would be located on the plane, creating rivnenki a cord and passages, rather than a dynamic entertainment. But above all it means that many - if not most - of these architects built buildings would not like this, but others adapted itself to the plain. It is hard to even imagine, who would then Lviv.
At this point, would have to start talking about the essence of Lviv - its architecture. But it is precisely in this place finishes this text.
Content of the article (English)





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